Let me start out by saying I haven’t written a complete crochet pattern before. I will write things for myself, but not something that I expect other people to use. That being said, here is a “pattern” for a hooded cowl and fingerless glove set I made. It wasn’t all that difficult. The hardest part for me was making sure I was working increases in the right places and trying to keep track of what I was doing so I could attempt to write a pattern. I used Caron Simply Soft yarn with a 5mm hook. Here goes nothin’!
Make a foundation single crochet of 32 stitches. This will be the back of the hood. The beginning of the foundation will be referred to as the “top.”
Row 1: Ch 3 (count as DC), and then DC in each stitch. When you get to the beginning of the foundation chain, continue to work around, placing 3 DC in the top (which is technically the side of a stitch). Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of this group. Continue working single DCs down the foundation. The row is completed when you get back to where you started the DC row.
Row 2: Ch 2 (count as HDC), turn. Work HDC in each stitch. When you get to the top, work 2HDC in each stitch on either side of your stitch marker, with just one HDC in the stitch with the marker. Now move your stitch marker to the stitch directly above it (the one that now has 2HDC on either side). Continue working HDC to the end.
Row 3: Ch 3 (count as DC), turn. Work DC into each stitch. When you get to the stitch marker, work 3 DC in that stitch. Continue the row with 1 DC in each stitch.
Row 4 – 14: Repeat rows 2 and 3.
Row 15: Ch 3 (count as DC), turn. Work DC in each stitch around. We’re done with increasing! yay!
Row 16: Ch 2 (count as HDC), turn. Work HDC in each stitch around.
Row 17 – 23: Repeat Row 15 & 16. I made a total of 23 rows, but you can do however many your heart desires. The person who will be receiving this project tends to like baggy hoods, so I had that in mind.
Row 1: DC in 4th ch from hook (this counts as a DC). DC in each chain to end of row. 27 stitches total.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a HDC), turn. HDC in each stitch to end of row. Again, 27 stitches total.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as DC), turn. DC in each stitch to end of row, for 27 total stitches.
Repeat Row 2 and 3 forever. Or until your scarf is as long as you want. Mine ended up being about 32 inches long.
*Note: I made space for a button hole in the last row. For this, I skipped 3 stitches and worked 3 chains instead. This is all personal preference. Do it where you think would be most appropriate and as big as you want for your button, then put your button on the other side of the scarf in a corresponding area.
Attaching the hood and scarf:
Whip stitch the hood and the scarf together. With the alternating rows on both the scarf and the hood, they should be able to line up pretty easily. I folded each item in half and lined them up to make sure it was balanced and symmetrical before stitching them together.
Row 1: With a contrasting color, work a SC in each stitch all the way around the scarf and hood that have been put together.
Row 2: Work a puff stitch into each SC all the way around. If you’re unfamiliar, just google a puff stitch. The best way I can describe it is 3 half-way completed DC in one stitch, and then completed by pulling the yarn through the 4 loops remaining on your hook. But really, google it. I’m no good at describing how to do them. These are obviously bigger than the rest of the stitches used, so it makes the edge a little ruffled. If that’s not your thing, then do whatever makes you happy.
Chain 15 loosely, slip stitch to first chain to form a ring. Make sure it doesn’t get all twisted up!
Round 1: Ch 3, and then work what I call a small puff stitch in the first chain. What I mean by that is completing the puff stitch with only 2 posts (so you’re pulling through 3 loops on your hook instead of four). Do a regular puff stitch in each of the remaining chains. There should be 15 total (with the Ch 3 and small puff stitch counting as one total stitch). Slip stitch to the top of the Ch 3 to complete the ring.
Round 2-7: With a new color, repeat Round 1.
Round 8: Ch 3, work 1 DC in first stitch. Ch 3, skip a stitch, and work a puff stitch in the next stitch. Continue to work puff stitches all the way around. Slip stitch in top of Ch 3 as usual.
Round 9: Ch 3, make a small puff stitch in 2nd stitch (which was just a regular DC). Work one regular puff stitch in the Ch 3 space. Continue to work a puff stitch in each stitch around (for a total of 15 puffs). Sl st to top of Ch 3 to complete the round.
Round 10-11: Repeat round 1
Round 12: New color! Work a reverse single crochet loosely in each stitch around. Do not make these tight! If these are worked tightly, it will cinch the top of the fingerless glove and it won’t fit, or at best will be just incredibly uncomfortable.
If you give this pattern a try and something doesn’t make sense, please let me know 🙂